Self Adhesive Mirror Tiles 12×12

Self Adhesive Mirror Tiles 12×12

Self Adhesive Mirror Tiles 12x12

Self Adhesive Mirror Tiles 12×12 – I’m going to be making a colour RGB LED edge lit mirror sign. The sign consists of a glass mirror that I have engraved and then edge lit with a RGB color LED strip and the frame is made out of reclaimed wood. But before we get started with the construction, let’s have a quick look at how led edge lighting works. An edge light is made from a transparent sheet with a light source located on one or more edges, light travels through the sheet without escaping because of refraction, refraction is the way that light bends when it passes from one medium to another. If the light strikes the inner surface at greater than the critical angle then it will be fully reflected and bounce between the inner surfaces of the glass, which is known as total internal reflection. When the light reaches an edge or an engraved area of the sheet and the angle is less than the critical angle, the light escapes.

So now that we know how edge lighting works let’s have a look at some of the parts used in the project. Firstly we have a glass mirror tile from Ikea, these come in packs of four and the tiles measure approximately 11-3/4″ or 30cm square. For the lighting I’ve used a 1ft or 30cm length of ws2812 RGB LED light strip, this is programmable and you can individually set each LED color. The strip is available on reels and you can cut them to length atthe marked positions. To operate the light strip we need a controller and I’ve used one of these small units which comes with a remote control. The ws2812 LED strip operates on 5 volts and it’s important to get the right type of controller as there are also 12 volt versions available. The power supply is 5 volts and finally the mirror is mounted on a frame made from recycled wood.

To create the snowman image I used my graphics tablet along with paint net and the image is available to download from a link in the video description; and that brings me onto the sponsor of the video to date which is storyblocks, now storyblocks is where you can get all the stock images that you can imagine including high quality photos, illustrations and vectors, which includes lots of different icons. My personal favorite is the curated collections which is great place to browse and search for inspiration. Story blocks have a member library of over 400,000 images that you can download and use royalty-free in your projects for both personal and commercial purposes. The account comes with a personalized royalty-free license agreement so that you don’t have to worry about copyright and you can also save 60% on Marketplace content.

Story blocks has a search facility to make it easy to find what you’re looking for and believe me the choice is huge. Click on the link in the description below to start downloading and get started today. Back to the project and I printed out the image, removed the protective backing from the mirror, Centered the image, taped along one edge and then using water-soluble glue I stuck it to the back. I then engraved the mirror through the paper. The paper helps prevent the engraver from moving around. means that I can use a ruler to engrave straight lines. The frame for the mirror is made in two sections that are glued together. The front section is made from some old framing timber, with a rabbit or rebate cut along one edge, in which to locate the mirror tile and then a second section is made out of pallet wood to increase the depth of the frame. I started making the front section by cutting the framing timber into four lengths and then cut a 45 degree angle on one of the pieces.

I set the fence on the router table to cut approximately 6.5mm or 1/4″ and routed rabbits into all four pieces of wood, down to a depth of 9.5mm or 3/8″ . The piece of wood that was cut to 45 degrees is where the LED strip is going to be located and to accommodate it, I’m going to route an additional groove or slot. The reason for this is so that the edge of the mirror can sit directly on top of the LEDs rather than to one side. I changed the router bit to a three millimeter or 1/8 of an inch straight bit and mounted a groove on the end of the existing rabbet, down to a depth of 13 millimeters or half an inch and this is the resulting profile. Next I cut 45 degree miters on the three square pieces of wood. I used the mirror tile to mark the inside length on one of the pieces added one-eighth of an inch and then extended the line at 45 degrees to the outside.

I lined up the pencil mark on the miter saw and set it in position with a stop block, which was one of the off cuts from earlier and this was so that I could exactly repeat the length on the following three pieces. To add strength to the frame I’m reinforcing the corners with loose Tenon’s which are made from strips of six millimeter or quarter-inch plywood. The mortice is cut into the ends of the wood on the router table with a six millimeter or quarter inch straight bit and to stop the mortises extending all the way to the edges, I’ve used 45 degrees stop blocks made from wood offcuts. Once the tenon on one side is routed then it’s just a case of swapping over the stock blocks and routing the second side. The final thing that I needed to do before gluing up the frame was to cut out a notch for the LED power cable. I applied glue to the mitres, mortises and loose Tenons. Stuck the four sides together, clamped the frame with a band clamp and then checked it was square, before leaving it dry overnight.

For the second frame section, I selected four pieces of pallet wood which were similar in size. I ran them through the table saw to clean up one set of edges and then once again to cut them all to the same width. I cut 45 degree mitres on one side of each piece. One of those pieces was then cut to length with a mitre on the opposite side and I used the offcut as a stop block, to cut the three remaining pieces to the same length. To mount the back into the frame I routed a rabbet along one edge of the pieces. Then I glued the miters and clamped the frame together with a band clamp, making sure it was square and that the distances between the corners were the same. Once the frame was dry, I reinforced the corners with dowels. To do that I drilled holes at 45 degrees using a mitered block of wood as a drilling guide and glued dowels into the holes. They were then cut flush with a pull saw and finished with sandpaper. The two frames were then glued together and clamped with as many clamps as I could find. Once the frame was dry it was time to fit the LED tape.

So I fitted it into the groove to find the correct length and then cut it to size. At this point it’s a good idea to test the LED strip with a controller and also to set the number of LEDs which is done from the remote control. Then I removed the backing from the LED tape and stuck it down into the groove and once again tested that the LED strip worked correctly. Next I fitted the mirror and a square of plywood and they’re held in place with Glazier points, which are set with a screw driver. The remote control works by infrared so to make sure it can be seen by the receiver on the LED controller, I drilled a small hole through the front panel and then enlarged it at the back. The receiver then fits into the hole and the controller can be plugged into the LED strip. I screwed the controller down with self-tapping screws and plugged the power supply in. To mount the mirror on the wall I’m going to use a French cleat. This is cut from a strip of plywood with the table saw set to 45 degrees.

To give the French cleat something to attach to, i glued and screwed a piece of wood to the top of the frame. This was just cut from a length of pallet wood. I cut another square of plywood for the back, the French cleat was placed in position. I drilled some pilot holes and then the French cleat was glued into position with some short temporary screws to hold it in place. I then turned it over and permanently screwed in from the back I plugged in the power cable to the controller and routed the wire through the corner and then replaced the temporary screws with longer ones. Self-tapping screws were then used to secure the back to the rest of the frame. Finally I screwed the opposite side of the French cleat to the wall, mounted the mirror and switched it on. The remote control has options for the colors effects and the speed, so that you can adjust the lighting to your taste.

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